Why Is My Candle Smoking and Leaving Black Marks? It Is Almost Always the Wick

A 12 oz Lemon Verbena artisan candle in a yellow glass vessel with a black lid, hand-poured in Kitchener, Ontario
The short answer

A candle smokes and leaves black marks for one reason more than any other: the wick is too long. The National Candle Association says to trim it to ¼ inch before every burn and keep candles away from drafts. Do both and the smoking usually stops the same evening. The marks on the glass wipe off.

The first time it happened to me I thought I had ruined a whole batch. A thin black ribbon lifting off the flame, and a grey smudge climbing the inside of the glass.

Four years and a lot of market weekends later, I can tell you it is almost never the wax, and it is almost never permanent.

Below: how to stop the smoking tonight, why the jar goes black, what that black ball on the wick is, whether the soot matters, and how to get the glass clean. The candles I am describing are my 12 oz Estate Vessel candles.

A flame can only burn so much wick. Give it more than that and it has to put the leftovers somewhere — so it puts them on your glass.

How do I stop my candle from smoking?


Four things, in the order I would check them.

  • Trim the wick. The National Candle Association says to trim to ¼ inch before each use, to prevent high flames and soot. On my wooden-wick bowls I take it to about 3 mm and snap the blackened tip off with my fingers.
  • Kill the draft. The same guidance says to keep candles away from open windows, fans and air vents. A flame being pushed around cannot burn evenly.
  • Take everything off the top. Dried flowers, fruit, spices, a piece of bark — none of it belongs in the wax when there is a flame. On my bowl candles every piece lifts off, and that is on purpose.
  • Keep the lid off while it burns. A lid left half on starves the flame of air.
If it is smoking right now, do not blow hard on it. Farmers’ Almanac says to use a snuffer or a gentle breath, and never to pour water into the jar, because hot wax can splatter. Let it cool, trim, relight.

Why does my candle jar turn black?


Because the flame is getting more fuel than it can burn completely. Farmers’ Almanac puts it plainly: when the fuel does not burn completely, tiny carbon particles escape and settle on the glass.

That is all soot is. Carbon that did not finish burning.

A long wick is the usual cause. A candle left burning for hours on end is the second. My bowl candles say never more than 4 hours at a time, then cool fully before relighting — and the National Candle Association says to stop burning when about ½ inch of wax is left.

A dark ring only at the very top of the glass is usually the last minutes of a burn rather than a fault. It wipes off.

Why is there a black ball on the end of my wick?


That is mushrooming. Farmers’ Almanac describes carbon collecting at the wick tip into a lump, and says the flame may then grow larger and begin to smoke.

It does not mean a bad candle. It means the wick has been burning longer than the length it was trimmed to.

What to do: let the candle cool completely, take the lump off, tip the loose debris out, relight. Farmers’ Almanac says to remove loose debris after the candle has cooled — not while the wax is liquid, or it sinks and burns later.

Is candle soot harmful?


I make candles, I am not a doctor, so here is what a named source says and nothing more. The National Candle Association’s safety guidance is to burn candles in well-ventilated rooms, and to trim the wick to ¼ inch so there is less soot in the first place. If you have asthma or any breathing condition, that is a question for your doctor, not for me.

What I will say plainly: if smoke bothers you, stop lighting things. There is a version of this with no flame in it at all.

Dried flower bowl candle in a shallow bowl topped with pressed botanicals, made to sit on a candle warmer instead of being lit
No flame, so there is nothing to make soot out of.

My Botanical Bowl Candles were made to be warmed, not lit. On a lamp melter or a candle warmer there is no flame, no smoke and no soot — and the 15 oz bowl runs about 300 hours that way instead of about 90 hours lit. Same bowl, same $39.99.

That is the one I point people to when there is a cat who jumps on counters, a rented room that does not allow an open flame, or a chest that does not like smoke.

What should I do tonight?


The only number you need¼ inch of wick, before every single burn. Nothing else here matters as much.
  • Put it out and let it cool. All the way, not five minutes.
  • Trim to ¼ inch. About 3 mm for a wooden wick, snapped off with your fingers.
  • Tip out the debris once the wax has gone hard.
  • Wipe the glass with a dry paper towel, then dish soap on a damp cloth. Dry it before you relight.
  • Move the candle off the windowsill, away from the vent, out from under the fan.
  • Cap the burn at four hours and stop when about ½ inch of wax is left.

From my kitchen table

There is a pair of small scissors in the drawer under my pour table, and every candle that leaves my kitchen has had its wick cut with them. It is the least interesting part of making candles and the part that decides whether yours behaves.

If one of mine smokes on you and a trim does not fix it, message me. I would rather know.

The short version


Smoking and black marks are a wick length problem and a moving air problem, in that order. Trim to ¼ inch, keep it out of the draft, cap the burn at four hours.

And if you would rather not manage a flame at all, warm the wax instead. Same scent, none of the soot.

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